Monthly Archives: January 2010

But What Will the Garbage Men Do?

One thing very cool about this food experiment (can I still call it that going on our second year?) is the marked decrease in garbage we generate. Even our recycling bin has slowed down significantly and that is saying something.

All those boxes of frozen foods, macaroni and cheese, bottles and cans that grocery store food come in are now noticeably absent. Junk mail and Dungeness Creamery plastic milk jugs comprise the bulk of the recycling these days, as well as boxes from my online infant reflux and colic store.

The bulk of our garbage? Dog poop. And while I keep stewing on an idea for an outdoor above ground composting toilet to dispose of that it hasn’t happened yet. And given it doesn’t work in heavy clay it won’t be happening, either since my yard is clay.

In the meantime it’s made taking out the trash a much easier job. And just in case we don’t get the can out to the curb in time, no biggie. It might be full in another week and we’ll probably remember then.

Pantry Pudding

chocolate-pudding

Did you think I was going to pull a box out of the pantry? :)

Last year when I started this journey I was a pretty decent cook but there are so many pantry items I never would have even thought about making from scratch. Pudding was one of those things.

When you read the list of ingredients on the back of the pudding box it sounds so magical, so mysterious, so laboratory and so improbable that you could make pudding yourself from things you already have in your pantry or fridge in the same amount of time it takes to cook box pudding.

Imagine making amazing pudding anytime you want without having to run to the store because you are out of boxed pudding, and without giving a dime to a large food corporation. No special packaging to dispose of and no artificial flavors or chemicals. And because you control the amount of sweetener the ingredients are, for the most part, totally wholesome ingredients that can help you get nutrient dense calories into a growing child. How cool is that?

preschool-pudding

Tonight’s pudding is dessert but it could just as easily be breakfast if I increased the number of egg yolks and cut back on the sugar. In fact, I may just make a bacon and maple syrup flavored pudding for breakfast one day. It would be the same basic recipe that I’m about to share with you and that would be one of a million ways in which you could personalize it.

By adding various flavoring extracts in place of the vanilla (think orange, coconut, mint, almond) or steeping herbs and spices for 30 minutes in the warm milk before making the pudding (think mint, lemon verbena, cardamon, coffee beans, tea with Chai spices, cinnamon, even garlic, rosemary or basil), adding solids (think citrus zest or pureed pumpkin) or substituting another liquid at the end as part of the total liquid in the recipe (think Frangelico, Kahlua, scotch) your options are endless.

You can dial up or down the sweetness and the fat to your own personal preference since the sugar and butter have nothing to do with getting the pudding to set. The cornstarch and egg yolks take care of that for you.

And really, there’s always room for pudding. Everyone knows that.

Master Recipe for Pudding

3/4 cup organic sugar
3 tablespoons organic corn starch
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 1/2 cup heavy cream
1 1/2 cup whole milk
3 egg yolks
3 tablespoons butter in 3 pieces
1 teaspoon vanilla

Technique:

If you plan to steep herbs or spices in the milk gently warm the milk, add the spices, then turn off the heat and let the milk sit for 30 minutes before straining. Discard the herbs or spices and use the milk as directed in the recipe.

In a saucepan, whisk together the sugar, cornstarch and salt. If you were making chocolate pudding you would add your cocoa powder now as well. Add half of the cream and the egg yolks and whisk until smooth.  Whisk in the remaining cream and milk.

Place the pan over medium heat and bring it to a boil, stirring constantly once the mixture thickens. Boil the pudding for 1 minute then remove the pan from the heat and stir in the butter along with any extracts, liquors or chocolate chips until the mixture is smooth.

Pour into individual serving dishes then cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate. Pudding will set once it is chilled.

puddings

I have not found a satisfactory work around for covering the pudding surface with plastic wrap and I hate to use it around food. This step is not necessary but it does help make the pudding creamier since the steam doesn’t escape as the pudding cools and that thick skin doesn’t form on the surface.

What I do is put all the ramekins on a tray and cover that with another tray. Because the steam is trapped under the top tray the skin doesn’t form but as condensation forms on the tray above the pudding, it drips back down and discolors the pudding surface. The texture is still intact and you could easily hide the surface with some whipped cream if you were entertaining. My kids certainly don’t mind though! 

Flavor Variations:

Chocolate Pudding
Add 3 tablespoons of unsweetened cocoa powder along with the sugar. Once the pudding is cooked and you’ve removed the pan from the heat stir in about 1/2 cup of chocolate chips or chopped baking chocolate. Cinnamon, mint, orange, coffee, Kahlua, or Frangelico would all be great in this chocolate variation.

Butterscotch Pudding
Substitute 3/4 cup brown sugar for the granulated sugar. Once the pudding is cooked and you’ve removed the pan from the heat stir in 2-3 tablespoons of Scotch along with the vanilla.

Chai Latte Pudding
Steep 1 tablespoon of black or rooibos tea along with 3 cardamom seeds, 3 peppercorns, 1/2 stick of cinnamon, 6 cloves and a pinch of ginger in the milk before making the pudding as discussed above. Proceed with the master pudding recipe.

Desem Bread – Pulling it All Together

Sorry if I’ve left any of you hanging on the desem – this week has totally gotten away from me. I’ve been working on an article for Canning Across America which will be up hopefully next week, planning the spring/summer/fall garden, organizing a large seed buy for the Seattle Urban Farm Coop, and managed to squeeze in a weeknight date with my hubby so I just haven’t been in front of the computer.

So from the top, to start a desem based on the Laurel’s Kitchen Bread Book:

Day 1 Combine 2 cups of organic stone ground bread flour with 1/2 cup filtered water. Knead it until you have a nice ball of stiff dough. If you are using a bag of ground bread flour simply bury your wild creature in the middle of the flour bag, seal it up and store it somewhere that is between 50 and 65 degrees. If you have no flour bag simply use a plastic container with a lid or another small paper bag that you can roll up and secure against bugs somehow. It will stay in that spot for 48 hours.

desem-day-11

Day 2 Do nothing with your desem.

Day 3 After digging out your ball of dough cut off any of the hard crust that may have formed and remove enough dough so that your remaining dough is about half of what you started out with after taking it out of the flour.

desem-ball

Add 1/4 cup of filtered water and work that well into the dough ball.

dissolving-desem

At that point add enough flour and/or water to get your dough ball back to the size you started with. This is called “feeding” the starter. Knead the flour and water in until smooth and then bury your dough ball back in your flour again in your cold cellar or garage (50-65 degrees.)

Day 4 Repeat day 3 directions.

Day 5 Repeat day 3 directions.

Day 6 Add 1/3 cup filtered water to your desem and work the water in so that the dough is completely dissolved. Knead 1 cup of flour into the dough mass to create a nice dough ball then store the desem in a covered non-reactive container like a glass bowl or quart sized yogurt container with tight fitting lid. Return the desem to your cold cellar or garage.

Day 7 Add 1/3 cup filtered water to your desem until the dough is completely dissolved just as on day 6. Add 1 cup of flour and knead for about 10 minutes to a nicely developed dough. Cut your dough into quarters and return one quarter to your closed container and ultimately to the cold cellar or garage.

Combine the other three quarters into one dough ball, place in a large mixing bowl and cover it with a platter. Leave it on the counter overnight so it’s ready for baking in the morning.

Day 8 through Day 14 Each day soften the desem from your cold storage with a few tablespoons of filtered water and then feed it 1/3 cup of flour just as you have been doing all week.

Day 15 on Feed your desem twice a week according to how frequently you bake bread. You will feed your desem about a half day before you want to make bread. Just remember to save a portion of your desem for future loaves.

On Day 8 or Later – to Bake Bread In the first two weeks your desem is not fully ripe and therefore won’t make loaves as light but you can still bake with it at any time.

Using about 2 1/4 cups of desem, soften it with 1 1/3 cups of filtered water. Add another 3 cups of flour and 2 1/2 teaspoons salt until your dough comes together. Using the bread hook on a mixer, knead for about 3 minutes, then turn off the mixture and let the dough rest for 5 minutes. Check to see if your dough is too sticky or too dry and adjust by adding small amounts of water or flour accordingly. Knead for another 6-8 minutes until the gluten is developed.

To test for this pull off a small blob of dough and stretch it gently while looking towards a source of light. If the gluten is developed enough it will stretch without tearing and form a “window pane” that you can see through.

Place the dough in a large bowl and cover it with a dinner plate in a draft free location at room temperature for 8-10 hours. As your desem gains in strength over it’s life this time will reduce by half. It’s ok for this first proof to go over so if you need to just ignore it and go to bed. Proceed with the next steps when you wake up (or calculate the following steps backwards from when you have time to bake the bread.)

Take the dough out of your bowl and gently deflate it on a lightly floured work surface. Flatten the dough and press it into a flat circle about 1″ thick. The following shaping directions are a little difficult to understand so I’m hoping to take pictures on Saturday. Until then try to use your imagination. Although complicated, they are necessary to develop surface tension which is then distributed throughout the dough. It’s this tension that gives your dough the structure to support a good rise and give you a nice, airy texture.

Take the top edge of the dough and fold it down to the middle of the circle, pressing to seal with the heel of your hand. Take the right edge and fold it in to the middle of the circle, pressing to seal with the heel of your hand. Take the bottom edge and fold it up to the middle of the circle, pressing to seal with the heel of your hand. Take the left edge and fold it in to the middle of the circle, pressing to seal with the heel of your hand. Think of these folds as the petals of a flower all folding in to the center.

The center of the circle that you are looking at will become the “stem” of the flower and ultimately the bottom of your loaf. Take your loaf on it’s side and roll it gently under one hand, putting pressure at the base of the flower so that your loaf tapers into a tear drop shape with the point of the tear drop being the flower stem.

Now taking both hands on either side of the flower lift it up so the top of the loaf (the side that was down on the counter in the beginning) is facing you. Very gently take both hands at 3 and 9:00 respectively and pull them down on either side of the dough, stretching and smoothing the top layer of dough. Now place your hands at 12 and 6:00 respectively and repeat the process.

Cover the dough and let it rest for 15 minutes and then repeat the process again – by flattening the dough into a 1″ tall circle and shaping once more. Place the dough either seam side down in a round glass casserole dish with lid which you’ve dusted with cornmeal, or seam side up in a bowl which you’ve lined with a tea towel dusted with cornmeal. If you have a glass casserole dish you can bake it directly in this once it’s finished the second rise. If not you would let it raise in the bowl and then gently turn it over onto either a wooden peel heavily dusted with cornmeal or directly onto a baking sheet dusted with cornmeal to bake. If you have a pizza stone this is the time to use it.

Your second rise will take about 1 1/2 to 2 hours and the more humid you can get the environment, the lighter your bread will turn out. One way to achieve this is to boil water in your microwave and then remove it and raise your bread in the microwave. You could use a recently unloaded dishwasher as your proofing oven. Or you could also use your oven with a pilot light on and place a pan of boiling water in there with the bread dough. Proof your dough until it “feels completely spongy to the touch and loses all it’s firmness, it may even sag just a little.” according to the Laurel’s Kitchen Bread Book.

When your dough is ready, barely slash the top to avoid having the top crust lift up on the loaf. Bake at 450 for about 15 minutes and then at 350 until it’s done, around 190 F. This should take about an hour in total.

The longer this dough takes to rise, the tangier and darker it will be so don’t throw it out if you aren’t happy with the flavor from this first loaf. Just eat it with some mustard, cheese and beer and bake with it again a week later, then another week later before making up your mind.

young-desem

This dough can also be used to make pitas or crackers anytime you want in the same way those logs of cookie dough are always ready to be shaped and baked just when you need them.

Can of Casserole – Scratch Style

chicken-enchilada-casserole-4

I have to admit back in the day I called this the Can of Casserole because it involved opening a can of cream of chicken soup, a can of olives, a can of Rotelle, a can of green chile peppers and buying a pre-roasted chicken or poaching a Costco chicken breast while I was opening all those cans. At one point in my life, and I shudder to admit this, I even used crushed Fritos as the base layer.

Boy have times changed. I do still shop at Costco – it’s a great place to buy cases of Northwest wine and beer, Beecher’s or Tillamook cheese, organic sugar and maple syrup. But that’s my consumable limit there.

My challenge since taking this local pledge is to replace as many of my family’s comfort foods with “from scratch” options as possible. In this case that has meant figuring out how to make things like tortillas from scratch and replace canned items with home grown and home canned things.

And while I do generally make all our tortillas from scratch, either using Wardeh’s spelt tortillasor the recipe on the back of the Bob’s masa harina bag for corn tortillas. I even went so far as to nixtamalize dent corn from Oregon last year and grind it in the food processor but I’m trying to take a step back this year and regain some balance in my life so I broke down and bought corn tortillas. I don’t know where the corn was grown or where they were made so it was a bitter pill to swallow but something has to give and that seemed a good place to push this week.

I’ve previously mentioned I like to make build upon meals where one night you roast a chicken (or two or three while you are at it) and successive nights you turn that into new meals lest your family mutiny. I do this not really to save money because sometimes pastured meat costs less than other things you may fortify it with, like local cheese in this case. The chicken was $4.50 per pound but the Beecher’s cheddar, even through Costco was $8 per pound. However, eating cheese and eggs seems more sustainable in the long run to me than consuming lots of meat which it sometimes feels like we do in excess while trying to eat locally.

Just over a year ago we were very close to becoming vegetarian in response to learning the truth about what we were eating. Instead, we decided to learn everything we could about food and only buy it from ethical and local farmers. Surprisingly, meat is one of the cheapest things we eat now. Pastured meat is cheaper even than local, organic legumes!

So build upon meals represent shortcuts for me more than monetary savings, although sometimes they also represent huge monetary savings in the case of bone broth that become the basis of other extremely frugal meals.

The Can of Casserole is one of those meals that can be frugal to make from scratch but can cost a small fortune when you are buying all those cans! I used to buy a rotisserie chicken, use the meat and throw away the carcass ($2.5 for half of the chicken), can of olives ($2.50), can of Rotelle ($3), can of green chilies ($2), can of cream of chicken soup ($2), container of sour cream ($3) and bag of tortillas ($3). I’m just guessing at these prices since it’s been so long now so if you think these numbers are way off feel free to let me know. That totals $18 to make this casserole.

I can now make it for $12 using all local, organic (Beecher’s is not organic in certification but is organic in practice), pastured chicken and home grown food. That represents purchased corn tortillas ($3), 1/3 roasted pastured chicken ($5), 1/4 pound Beechers ($2), home canned green tomato/chili sauce ($1), home cured olives ($.25), milk ($.75) and pennies for 2 tablespoons of flour, butter and odd spices. Not bad for a meal that feeds my family for several nights. You could make this even more frugal (shave off $2) by making the corn tortillas from scratch and omitting the olives since I recognize not everyone wants to cure their own olives. Also I buy local, raw milk which costs considerably more than buying organic dairy pool milk at the store so you could get this down even more by replacing the milk in this recipe (shave off another $.25 that way.)

That means what was costing $18 to make using highly processed ingredients of dubious quality and supporting food corporations I disagree with could cost $9.50 to make using all organic, local, pastured real foods. Granted it takes a little longer to make it this way but in all honesty if you are using leftover roast chicken and buying the tortillas it takes about 15 minutes to make the sauce – not too much longer than it takes to open, empty and rinse out all those cans for the recycling bin. You saved much longer than 15 minutes by not making a last minute trip to the store so you’ve got time to spare.

If you wanted to make this vegetarian you could easily replace the chicken with black or pinto beans but that would change the costs. Buying organic but non-local black beans would bring the cost down even further while buying organic local black beans might raise it.

Now on to the recipe…which is really a non-recipe. That allows you to use what you have in your freezer and pantry which is where things really get frugal. Cooking with what you have is lesson #1 in frugality.

Begin by making a white sauce. Melt 2 tablespoons of butter in a sauce pan. Add 2 tablespoons of flour and whisk until they are blended. Cook them for several minutes. The mixture will begin resembling mashed potatoes.

making-roux

Add 2 cups of milk, whisking to smooth out the lumps and cook for about 10 minutes until the mixture begins to thicken. At that point you can add your spices – roast garlic or garlic powder, cumin, chili powder, oregano, grated cheese and/or home canned chilies or salsa to your taste.

chili-cheese-sauce

Spread one layer of corn tortillas (or polenta) in a lasagna pan. Over that scatter your cubed or shredded chicken, any corn of other veggies (squeezed of excess water) from your freezer and about 2/3 of your sauce.

chicken-enchilada-casserole-1

chicken-enchilada-casserole-2

Cover that with another layer of corn tortillas or polenta. Top that with the remainder of your white sauce base and a generous layer of shredded sharp cheddar or other cheese. Queso fresco would be great here as well. I like to sprinkle chili powder or paprika on the top cheese layer because I like the added depth it gives to the cheese.

chicken-enchilada-casserole-3

Bake in a 350 degree oven until the sauce begins to bubble and it’s warmed through, about 45 minutes. This is another of those casseroles that you could assemble the night before and pop into the oven day of, or it could be frozen in smaller sizes for a future convenience dinner.

chicken-green-chili-enchiladas

How about you? Do you have any “can of” casseroles? I bet if you used this white sauce as the foundation to replace any of the creamed soups you could convert legacy recipes just like this. In fact, I’m thinking of going to the Rotelle website to get more casserole ideas for my green tomato chile sauce which I canned last summer and to the Cambpbell’s soup website to get more ideas for creamy casseroles like this since my family loves them.

Dark Days Week 9

Dark days are clipping by faster than a picket fence out the window of a hot rod Chevy. Despite my distraction with California citrus this week I’ve been busy cooking up some local grub as well.

I’ve had 100 pounds of apples sitting in my garage waiting for some attention all fall. Last week I juiced a gallon and a half and tried to whey ferment it but it molded on the third day. This week I decided to stick with the basics since we consume an extraordinary amount of apple sauce (I sauced around 160 pounds last year in January and we finished it right around late July when the first “gold” apples came into season. I sauced around 30 pounds of apples this week and have another 40 to go…

applesauce

This applesauce is pink because these are Akane apples and I sauce them with the skin on. I love it’s bright clean flavor and fun pink color and so do my kids. In general I find the early apples are best for saucing. I love anything with a gold in the name and find they keep their color and don’t separate into juice and sauce layers when canned or thawed like others do (honeycrisp, gala, etc.) I also love Liberty, Lodi, King, any of the Pippins and Swiss Gourmet. It’s fun to look at the jars I have canned and compare the color of each kind.

One reason we go through so much applesauce is that we use it to make fruit leather. It’s good on it’s own but you can add puree from any fruit or veggie up to 50% and still get that great texture that you can from straight up apple. Here is the last of the grape fruit leather the kids polished off this week, made from foraged grapes picked up in Shoreline. Can you believe the woman was going to let them rot on the vine?

grape-fruit-leather

I’m a fan of birds and all but we’d like your grapes too…

We started the week off with a quick and hearty soup made from the sauce & remaining meat from last week’s pot roast. I added some of Nash’s Chinese cabbage, turnips, carrots, an onion, dehydrated celery and potatoes from Methow.

beef-soup

The next night I made a garlic and bay roasted chicken raised for me by Shawna of Pastured Sensations. I picked the bay leaves off the tree in the side orchard and roasted some of Skeeter’s potatoes in the pan juices a la Herb Garden.  The garlic I pulled from the freezer, roasted late summer when it was plenty.  I think I roasted 4 pounds of garlic which is two pint bags worth.  It’s so convenient to just break off a clove and add it to anything, including cooking potatoes for mashing or to spread it on crostini.

bay-roast-chicken

I made a quick side of braised kale and Rockridge Orchard apple cider glazed delicata from Skeeter’s squash (Methow Valley.) Skeeter, by the way, is Michael Pilarski who farms in Methow Valley and regularly comes to Seattle to teach wildcrafting classes. We were lucky enough to buy quite a bit of surplus squash, potatoes and root crops from him this fall and are enjoying them immensely (as well as enjoying our visits with him!)

apple-cider-glazed-squash

The next night I made a pan full of chicken enchiladas from leftover chicken, our corn from the freezer, Beecher’s cheese melted into white sauce with my home canned green chile sauce (made from green tomatoes last fall.)

chicken-green-chili-enchiladas

That lasted us two nights and the next night I made a pan full of chicken and spelt dumplings with the final chicken and the stock from the carcass. This is how one chicken can feed a family for the better part of a week – using “build upon” cooking techniques and stretching the meat with less expensive ingredients. The carrots were from Methow Valley, dehydrated celery, almost the last onions I had bought from Nature’s Last Stand in early December and spelt dumplings made from home clabbered buttermilk from Dungeness Creamery milk, dehydrated parsley and backyard eggs.

chicken-and-dumplings

Bread pudding muffins made from backyard eggs, Golden Glen cream, and my everyday bread (Blue Bird hard red wheat, Lentz spelt and Nash’s rye.) I added french toast seasonings to this (cinnamon & nutmeg) to entice my littlest persnickety eater to try them. I told him they were eggnog muffins. It worked! Can you believe I have to talk him into eating something loaded with eggs and cream?

bread-pudding-muffins

A quick supper of husband-made Loki fish patties – backyard eggs, my sandwich bread, Loki canned salmon, onion and spices served with home canned (and grown) dill pickles and cabbage slaw.

salmon-patties

A local southern comfort dinner of pan seared pork chops glazed with local ale, medley of collard greens, kale, turnips and carrots cooked in garlic and ham hock and thyme seasoned creamy polenta pudding made from fresh ground corn from Dufur, OR. If only I’d had time to make that sweet potato pie. I did find local sweet potatoes at the West Seattle farmer’s market. The guy told me that’s the only market they sell at. Why I have no idea but you can get local sweet potatoes there. I bought 6 pounds to celebrate so I’m thinking sweet potato pie and sweet potato fly are both in my future for next week.

pork-chops-and-polenta

English muffins – I had to because I made a LOT of citrus marmalade this week and there is nothing better to sop it up with than a toasted english muffin. I used all white flour from Dufur, OR for these and even my 6 year old said “why do these stick to my teeth?” It’s been so long since we’ve eaten white flour we don’t even like it anymore! Next time I’ll make these with spelt. They were a huge hit and I put some in the freezer for breakfast egg sammies one day…

english-muffins

The nooks!  The crannies!  They filled right up with meyer lemon and rosemary marmalade and butter!  Delish. 

english-muffins-split

Friday is dessert day so I made some individual pie shells from Golden Glen butter and Lentz spelt.  I filled them with the most amazing meyer lemon curd which isn’t local so I’m leaving the picture out of this post.  

Trying the recipe was more curiosity than anything because I love the Pasta and Company lemon curd and once I’ve committed to something I don’t frequently cheat on it but this recipe called for not one but two sticks of butter.  I had to see just how that would incorporate into one small batch of lemon curd.  Quite nicely it turned out.  It confirmed my long running suspicion that French cooking is really just mastering the technique of infusing as much butter as possible into any given food.  And that’s working for me this week.

lemon-tart-shells

The other thing I’ve been working on this week is building up my medicine cabinet. I made a wee bit of elderberry syrup from berries I got from Mountain Rose Herbs. They have some great tutorials on their website. I’m also making tinctures of various other herbs and roots in 180 proof vodka for flu remedies. The tinctures last several years and it will be nice to have them around. One is dandelion root, one is echinacea and one is lomatium.

elderberry-syrup

I had been buying the elderberry syrup at Met Market for $10ish per bottle. For less than that I made all of these which are now in my freezer. Elderberries are yet another of nature’s gifts that scientists are now realizing actually have empirical evidence supporting their beneficialness. If that’s a word.

One complete fail for the week – since I had so much dandelion root around and have been thinking of ways to decrease my coffee consumption I roasted some and brewed a tea. Can I just say nasty? I practically spat it out, even sweetened with honey and milk. Ma and Pa Ingalls may have had to stoop this low when they couldn’t afford coffee but I would rather just do without. Of course it’s nice that I don’t really have to.

I’m looking forward to when my backyard tea plant is producing but for now I have a secret stash of local tea and next year I’ll save more of the chammomile, lemon verbena, mint, raspberry leaves, wintergreen, sweet woodruff, lavender and catnip. They made fine teas while they lasted. The nice thing is they are only a short few months away now.

I want to point out that any Mountain Rose Herb links are affiliate links and I hope you’ll consider using them if you were going to be shopping online anyway. It helps to fund this blog.

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