Monthly Archives: March 2010

Guest Post – Lacto Fermented Salsa

A few weeks ago reader Brook mentioned her lacto-fermented salsa which I zeroed right in on. I’ve done some lacto-fermenting this year, namely beet kvass, carrots and dill pickles. But when Brook mentioned she had made tomato salsa last summer that was still good after 6 months I knew I had to have her do a post about it. My goal this year is to can less and put up more. Lacto fermentation is a great way to do that. Without further ado, here is Brook’s post.

Enough About the Salsa, Already!

Adding something from your summer garden to your winter meal is a treat. Whether pulling blueberries from the freezer, or opening a jar of honey peaches, it brightens your plate and your day. I feel this way about the salsa I have sitting in the refrigerator. Last fall I decided it was time to try lacto-fermenting something and salsa was my first try – and a successful first try, at that! I always have something fermenting in my kitchen – from everyday sourdough to beet kvass. My husband lovingly calls it the hippie tower – the dinner plates covering bowls and then stacked on top of each other to save valuable counter space. But the salsa, it really knocked my socks off! It is March! How can I still be eating something that has been hanging out in my fridge since September?

Lacto-fermentation is centuries-old practice of preserving food. Whey from milk or yogurt, added to fruits or vegetables helps to produce lactic acid, a natural preservative. This lactic acid prevents harmful bacteria from growing, allowing the food to be eaten months later. And unlike canning that actually depletes fruits and veggies of intrinsic nutrients, lacto-fermentation adds significant nutrient value to foods. This process turns an already vibrant condiment like salsa into a super food – adding beneficial enzymes and thousands of friendly bacteria that aid in digestion and help to boost immunity.
The nice thing about this salsa is that you don’t need a specific recipe. You can use your favorite fresh salsa recipe and just add a step to ferment it. I didn’t really have a recipe going into this – I used what I had around – generally what Fall has to offer. I had a pile of tomatoes ripening on the back porch and the rest of the ingredients came from my CSA. You can follow this basic method:

To your food processor, add garlic cloves, onion, and a generous bunch of cilantro and process until the garlic and onion are minced. Slice the tomatoes in half and squeeze most of the watery juice into the sink or save it for another purpose, leaving the meaty part of the tomato and the skin. Then, add these to the food processor along with a seeded (or not) jalapeño, the juice of a lime, and sea salt and blend until the tomatoes are close to uniform in size but still a bit chunky. Transfer all of this mixture into a large bowl and add the whey. I used approximately 2 tablespoons of whey per 4 cups of salsa. Stir the whey into the salsa really well. Now, pour the salsa into very clean jars and cap tightly, leaving about 1 inch between the salsa and the top of the jar to allow for expansion of the juices. Let the jars sit on the counter for 2-3 days and then transfer to the fridge. That’s it! One extra step, and now you have salsa to last through the dark days of winter.

Knowing what I now know about lacto-fermentation hasn’t stopped me from expecting a foul smell or to see mold growing each time skeptically I open the jar. And I think my husband is half smiling, half rolling his eyes every time I say “Look at this, salsa. I made this way back in September! No, really, come look at it. It’s still perfect!” He’s heard it over and over again. This is a simple, yet tried and true way of preserving what nature has given us and it continues to amaze me. It’s led to experiments with fermenting many other things like sauerkraut, kimchi, and beet kvass. I’m down to the last half jar and it feels bittersweet. The salsa is gone but, I’m excitedly anticipating the arrival of my tomato plants from Territorial so that I can start the process all over again.

Dark Days Week 18

So close to the end of March and officially into spring! My garden is suddenly bursting with a whole lot of new growth.

Today we made a serious effort to clean out the freezer so that the freshly cured bacon, Canadian bacon and ham will have a home so we made a mess of ribs for dear friends.

Smoker man asked for potato salad to go along with it so I took a walk through the yard. Mostly unrecognized by all but me I found tarragon, parsley, lovage, chives, fennel, borage, and salad burnett making appearances so I plucked them all.

Then I boiled up some backyard eggs and made potato salad using some home grown, home canned pickles from last summer. If you’ve ever struggled with mushy pickles I highly recommend finding some Mrs. Wages pickling lime. Those pickles were as crisp and crunchy as a fresh cucumber. And as an added bonus you can use it to nixtamilize your corn and turn it into masa harina.

I’ve also been busy harvesting the cole crops to make room for carrots this weekend. I still have a shopping bag full of overwintered carrots and now about 15 pounds of brussel sprouts, cabbage, collard greens and beet greens in the spare fridge. I pulled up the sprouting broccoli plants and gave them to the chickens. The girls were thrilled since brassicas appear to be their favorite garden plant so far.

I combined some Rockridge Orchard apple cider vinegar, mayo and Sweet as Can Bee honey to make coleslaw.

Earlier in the week I headed up to Silvana Meats to pick up Chubby and while I was there I stocked up on a few things like local hot dogs, corned beef and head cheese. Reading Charcuterie got me all religious about not wanting to waste any of the pig but given the enormity of the situation when I was at the farm I decided to take baby steps. Buying a package of ready made head cheese gave me the opportunity to try it without spending any effort or time making it.

So now I’ve tried it and I’m really glad I didn’t try to make it. Got that out of my system! At least my homemade Bluebird Grains bread was good…

My husband was gone the better part of the week so the kids were once again driving the menu. We’ve been on a donut tear, first making chocolate balls which I forgot to photograph and then buttermilk drops. We never made it to the maple bars before my husband returned but he’s leaving town again in a few weeks so we’ll be getting the Cool Daddy back out then I’m sure.

The donuts were Lentz spelt, home clabbered buttermilk and backyard eggs.

We also made the largest chocolate chip cookie I’ve ever made using Lentz spelt. It was delicious with a scoop of our homemade Golden Glen ice cream.

There was a whole lot of sausage since I was mixing and seasoning and packaging all my bulk sausage. We had one night of spaghetti from Azure in Dufur, OR. I had some home grown plum tomatoes in the freezer that I had run out of time to process last summer and just froze them skinned in a ziplock. I cooked a quick sauce using frozen roasted garlic that Skeeter grew for me last summer and some frozen basil. I had frozen the basil in a ziplock still on the stalk and it looked remarkably fresh and was perfect in this quick sauce. One nice thing about freezing instead of canning was how fresh the tomato tasted. Oh summer.

After I mixed up my breakfast sausage I fried up a meal’s worth of patties to be sure the seasoning was on track. Yup.

I spent a fun day with friends who took home the other half of chubby. We seasoned and stuffed bratwurst while the kids played. That night it was nice to have a freezer full of sausages that could quickly go from freezer to grill to plate. I filled the empty spots on the plate with some freshly picked mache.  A homemade pickled jalapeno and Charlotte’s sauerkraut rounded it out, along with a taster of local beer.

No St. Patty’s day is complete without corned beef and it was nice they had some up at Silvana since I didn’t realize when ordering cuts of our Cascade Range beef that brisket is a specialty meat. If you don’t specifically know to ask for it it goes into stew. That one didn’t go over with my husband very well but Silvana redeemed me because he admitted that theirs was better than our home cured corned beef and that’s saying quite a bit. I braised some garden turnips and overwintered cabbage to go along with them

Chicken Little has also been on a smoothie kick ever since I showed him how to use the blender. So far he’s stuck with frozen strawberries that I bought from Billy at UW market last summer. They were in 20# buckets marked #2 which means they weren’t pretty and needed to be processed right away but they made awesome fruit leather and smoothies! We also used Golden Glen cream and milk as well as some of our homemade ice cream. What is nice about that is that it’s only lightly sweetened and loaded with backyard eggs which made it an amazingly healthy after school snack.

Happy Dark Days!

For the Love of Bacon

On Saturday I ventured into new territory. I posted it to facebook to gauge response. I know I have quite a few readers who are vegetarian and have been vegetarian myself at different points in my life. One thing about eating locally which I think of often is that we eat way more meat than we used to.

In part this is because I’ve done a lot of reading about the ill effects soy can have on us, and especially on small children. I won’t go into that, I’ll leave you to come to terms with eating soy. I refuse to eat it and I won’t let me kids eat it. We do eat other legumes and have meatless meals several times a week but having a freezer full of local beef, pork and chicken just begs you to cook it.

Before finding local sources for pork we weren’t really eating any pork. But now that we have local sources and I have two young bacon lovers demanding it, we are going whole hog. And when I say that, I really mean it. This is the point where I advise you to stop reading now if you are vegetarian or at all squeamish. I’m deliberately not posting any images.

Last Saturday I traveled up to Ebey Farms in Everett with a van full of friends for the day. Our mission: shop for pork. By shop I mean choose, off and prepare a pig, hoof to freezer.

Since reading Omnivore’s Dilemma I’ve felt I need to take more responsibility for my food. I want to see where the animals lived and know the kind of life they led. And if that means learning it’s name then so be it. I used to think buying shrink wrapped packages of meat was more humane than hunting a wild animal. As if animals raised in confinement somehow were better equipped to end their lives so that we could eat meat. I know now there is nothing humane about buying a package at the store with no sense for how that animal lived it’s life.

Did it “express it’s pigness” while alive? Did it live naturally and enjoyably? Was it mistreated? Drugged? Confined? What kind of demise did it have? A terrifying drop to the kill floor or something quick and painless in it’s natural environment (something akin to dying in your sleep in your own bed)?

I’m not knocking anyone for buying meat in packages. I just personally feel the need to do more at this point in my life. If I could raise every meat animal we eat I would do that too. But I can’t given my physical location. My neighbors would surely object to that one! So I left that to Ebey Farm.

Ebey Farm is a very unassuming piece of land on Ebey Island. It’s a fairly new hobby farm started by a very dedicated new breed of farmer. An ex-techie, Bruce King has opted out and thrown his hat into the local food ring. He’s raising lamb, heritage turkeys, chickens and specialty pork breeds on pasture. His concern for the animals shines through when he talks about them and it’s evident in the way they are treated.

While we were there he and his partner Andrea were busy tending to a sow giving birth and Andrea later carried newborn baby pigs in her coat to keep them warm. I also watched her help a grateful pig scratch that hard to reach spot on it’s back.

These are the kinds of people I want raising my food. Practical, caring, knowledgeable. They get my food dollars and those from as many other bacon eaters as I can steer their direction.

I scheduled Saturday with some trepidation. I slept fitfully the night before. When I was a kid I collected pigs. Not because I liked bacon. Because I thought they were cute. And once you tell someone you like something you end up with a million replications of it in various guises – stuffed animals, decorated sweatshirts, slippers, banks. My room looked like a pig shrine. I even named my silver 1970 VW Bug the Silver Sow.

I didn’t eat pork for about 10 years because it would have been like eating dog. But gradually the lure of bacon won me back. Could I tough enough? I have a soft spot for animals but a weak spot where my stomach is.

We got there and Bruce had chosen two pigs for us and not fed them in 24 hours to make our job easier. While the pigs rooted around two of my friends took their positions. J used a 22 to shoot the pig in the head and stun it while L immediately used a knife to slit the jugular and quickly end the pig’s life. I opted to remain on the sidelines and I can’t tell you how glad I am that I did. Pigs are very large animals, very strong and very fast when they feel the need to be.  Good kickers.

Once the pig was down and the blood done draining Bruce used a length of chain to hook the pig’s ankle up to the tractor and lifted it over the fence so that we could process it. We hosed the pig off as thoroughly as possible and began to skin it from the rear hooves down, being careful to avoid the tale and anus.

Once the skin was down to the neck region J sawed off the head. At that point we sliced very carefully into the belly to expose the organs and intestines. J loosened those while L very carefully cut around the tail and anus, loosening it. I tied off the anus with a sacrificed bit of rain coat and another friend pulled gently on the intestines to pull it through the inside of the pig. At that point the guts, anus and organs spilled out into waiting hands since we had no bucket. The last step was sawing the pig in half before putting the halves in hefty bags which Bruce drove up to Silvana Meats for me.

I could have chosen to put it in coolers and finish the process at home but I felt like I had journeyed far enough for one day and chose to head to the van driver’s house to help him process his whole pig. My pig would be expertly butchered to my specifications for fifty-three cents a pound. I feel like that was a wise investment. In fact, I could have chosen to have someone from the butchers come do what is called a “farm kill” for about $60. Then I wouldn’t have needed to be there at all. I could have simply picked up my bundles of meat from the butcher. I will be doing that next time.

Once we got back to L&J’s we set up assembly lines. L carved up packages of ribs, tenderloin roasts and loin steaks which we wrapped in freezer paper. He set the hams, jowels and bacon into salt brine to begin the curing process and set aside the picnic ham and shoulder for smoking. We pulled as much meat off any bones as possible and filled up 3 bowls of trimmings which would become sausage after cooling overnight. L put the bones on to make broth with them for savory bean soups.

Then he grilled up some loin medallions since none of us had eaten since breakfast and it was now about 5 p.m. The whole ride up I had this fear that I would have a freezer full of pork and lose my desire to eat it after going through the process. It couldn’t have been further from the truth. That pork tasted amazing. And while the whole process was something I likely won’t repeat again for lack of time, it was not the soul wrenching, self loathing, deliverance kind of day I had anticipated.

I’m looking forward to picking up my pig from Silvana Meats later this week so that I can get it home and cure my own ham, Canadian bacon, maple bacon and season and stuff sausages. I’m planning on Teriyaki, Brats, lil’ smokies and Kielbasa if I can bum some other sized casings from Silvana while I’m there. I’ll also be mixing quite a bit of sausage with Italian and breakfast flavors which I won’t stuff since we use those in patties, meatloaf, chili, pasta and on pizzas.

Even with the butcher fees my pig will cost me about $2.43 per pound. For naturally raised, pastured local pork. $2.43 per pound for bacon, ribs, achingly tender smoked pork butt and Christmas ham. And you can bet I’ll think of Bruce, Andrea and Chubby every time I serve my pork.

Dark Days Week 17

In the home stretch until Dark Days become…I guess light days or not so dark days. I have some overwintered salad greens putting on lots of new growth and lovage almost ready to drink through but not many other heralds of spring are ready to eat yet. The strawberries have new growth, the rhubarb is shooting up and everything is going to seed. I’m in a race to eat down the cabbage bed so that I can get the carrots planted and need to take out the turnips & rutabagas so that I can plant the potatoes there should Territorial see fit to send them to me…St. Patrick’s day is this week and that is when you are supposed to start your potatoes. I can’t even chit mine yet! But I digress. On to last week’s lineup.

Barbecued chicken from Pastured Sensations, homemade whiskey barbecue sauce, Skeeter’s sweet meat squash and my purple sprouting broccoli.

Cheesy broccoli rice. Golden Glen cream, Pleasant Valley cheese, homegrown broccoli, California rice, backyard eggs and Skeeter’s sweet meat squash.

Smoky white chili on homemade Lentz spelt tortillas with garden fresh greens and carrots and home canned salsa. The chili was from the freezer made with broth from our Pastured Sensations smoked turkey from Thanksgiving and Full Circle farm white beans. We also ate a lot of wraps this week using roast Cascade Range beef from the freezer. Last summer when I made this salsa we were very meh about it.

I even told a friend I probably wouldn’t can salsa again because it doesn’t taste as fresh as garden tomatoes. Now that I haven’t had a fresh tomato since early October this salsa rocked. Everything is relative, right? I’ll be making lots of salsa this summer for next March and April. By May Billy will have some hothouse tomatoes at the UW farmer’s market and this year, I’ll be gladly paying his prices. They may be grown in a hothouse but they are grown in honest to God dirt and they taste amazing.

Dungeness crab cakes using homemade Bluebird Grain emmer and hard white wheat breadcrumbs, garden greens and backyard eggs for the aioli.

Crab cake poor boys the next day using the same bread and aioli. Can I just say that I could eat this every day?

Two kinds of beef jerky – my regular kind which comes from thinly sliced steak against the grain and an experiment. I added pepperoni seasonings to grass fed hamburger from Cascade Range Beef. The texture was much easier to chew and I think this will work great as a pepperoni substitute on pizzas for the kids. It’s not as tangy as pepperoni which is fermented and cured for weeks but after all, it’s for kids.

Backyard eggs and sausage links from our Akyla Farms pig.

Mondo Brothers sausage, home grown pickled beets, collards and turnips from the garden, lacto-fermented carrots that I made using Nash’s carrots and homemade mustard made from Redhook Brewery Blackhook Porter.

Happy Dark Days!

Put the Latte Down, Chicken

A few weeks ago I joined the large number of Seattle chicken owners using reclaimed coffee chaff as chicken bedding. Chaff is the papery outer sheath of the coffee bean and something that David Ruggiero of www.UpCycleNW.com is trying to put to good use.

David’s company recycles things from coffee roasters like chaff, inedible beans and burlap bags. These things are great for gardens and chickens and are all low cost or free. I had been reading posts about other chicken owners on the Seattle Urban Farming Coop using it and seen posts like this one which piqued my interest. After doing some research to be sure it wouldn’t in any way harm the chickens or my veggie garden once this chaff was composted I took the plunge.

I picked up 4 bags of it from David who was every bit as helpful and fun as he appears in the Tangled Nest post above. My car instantly smelled heavenly but the kids complained the whole way home. The chickens didn’t seem to mind the change at all and have continued to lay eggs at the same pace as before. I haven’t been using it long enough yet to see if it breaks down any faster than the pine chips I was using but I can tell you that if I had chaff instead of wood shavings while we were raising the chicks indoors, my house would have smelled more coffee shop than pet shop which makes for a happier husband.

All in all I’m thrilled with the chaff and will be using it as long as it’s available. I also picked up some organic burlap bags from David which I plan to use to grow potatoes in the parking strip as soon as Territorial gets around to sending the seed potatoes out (hello, are you reading this Territorial?).

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