Category Archives: Meat Rabbits

Producer Profile: Abundant Acres

I’ve recently dipped my toes into rabbit as a means of keeping backyard meat but decided to wait a bit.  It’s true you can buy rabbit from Bill the Butcher but what a sham that turned out to be. The Bill the Butcher expose only strengthened my resolve even further to know the person raising my meat animals, know their living conditions, and know the processing method and circumstances around the animal’s death.

I’ve scrutinized farmer Brad for months now about the living conditions and the livestock feed and feel pretty comfortable recommending him. He traveled to Polyface Farms in 2008 and met briefly with Daniel Salatin before starting up his rabbit operation, attempting to make it as sustainable as possible.

A quick blurb about the ideals they strive for on the farm:

Abundant Acres Farms is the result of many years of thought, research and learning. We are committed to providing our family, friends and customers the freshest and finest pastured meats.

Located in Toledo, WA our farm was originally homesteaded in 1935. We purchased the farm from the son of the original homesteaders! At nearly 40 acres, there is plenty of fresh air, grass and water for all the animals to express their natural instincts–a trait we hope to foster and encourage.

We will never be a mass producer, rather a “boutique” for more discriminating folks who care about their family, food origin and nutritional value.

Our logo “Ceres” (pronounced Series) is the ancient Roman goddess of plants. As we are a pasture based farm, grass quality is the foundation of our farm. We seek to use rotational grazing to naturally fertilize the fields, our flock of hens will work in the manure and insure bugs and flies are kept in check.

All animals are brooded on the farm in Toledo, Washington. They begin lives on conventional feed but are moved onto grass and local, unsprayed oats and alfalfa as soon as possible.

Farmer Brad raises chickens, ducks, geese, turkey, rabbits and occasionally pigs. You can email cereshill@yahoo.com for pricing or to reserve meat animals. He also sells breeding rabbits.

We thoroughly enjoyed our rabbits from him and I got a duck for my birthday dinner which I’ll be posting on soon I hope. It was amazing dark meat – the perfect thing for a special occasion. I’m looking forward to a fine Dickensian goose for Christmas and perhaps a steamed pudding to go with it.

Have you thought much about your Thanksgiving meal? Cascade Harvest Coalition always hosts an eat local contest with some pretty nifty prizes. Now is the time to be thinking about stocking your larder and freezer for fall and winter eats and farmer Brad is a great place to start!

Rabbit with Mustard Sauce

My son struggled with this. His kindergarten class has a pet rabbit and at first he was hesitant to eat it. He asked me repeatedly what I thought it would taste like. He’s come to terms with the fact that bacon is pig and hamburgers are cow. He’s learned to trust me when he comes through the door asking what is for dinner and I say “Pot Pie” that I don’t mean his beloved chicken who bears the same name. Although we’ve discussed that someday that’s a real possibility.

In the end the appetizing looking dish of rabbit smothered with caramelized onions, roasted garlic and creamy dijon won him over. He needed something to go with his potatoes.

Lapin à la Moutarde - from Saveur

1 large rabbit (3–4 lbs.), cut into 8 pieces
1⁄2 cup dijon mustard
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 T unsalted butter
1 small onion, finely chopped
2 cloves minced garlic (I used roasted garlic cloves from the freezer)
1⁄2 cup dry white wine (I used Chateau Ste Michelle Sauvignon Blanc)
1 sprig rosemary plus 1 sprig thyme
1⁄3 cup crème fraîche
finely chopped parsley to plate

Rub mustard on the rabbit and season with salt and pepper.

Sear the rabbit in half the butter over medium high heat, turning frequently until browned, about 15 minutes. Remove it from the pan and hold it on a platter.

Reduce heat to medium and fry the onion and garlic in the remaining butter, stirring occasionally until softened, 8–10 minutes.

Deglaze the pan with the 1/2 cup of wine, scraping the browned bits. Return rabbit pieces to the skillet, along with the herb sprigs. Cover and cook until rabbit is tender, about 35 minutes.

Off heat, remove the rabbit onto a serving platter. Remove and discard the herb sprigs. Add the creme fraiche and stir until the sauce is smooth and even. Spoon the sauce over the rabbit and sprinkle with chopped parsley.

Another recipe from yet another class participant:

Braised Rabbit
Serves 4.
1 rabbit, about 3 lb
2 cups flour
2 tsp salt
1 medium onion, chopped
olive oil
1 T tomato paste
2 cloves garlic, minced
3 T fresh rosemary, minced
2 T flatleaf parsley, minced
zest of one lemon
2″ cinnamon stick
1-1/2 cup low sodium chicken broth
1 cup hearty red wine
1 T cognac
1 tsp balsamic vinegar
hot sauce to taste

Cut the rabbit into 6 pieces and trim, reserving the internal organs. Put
the rabbit pieces, flour and salt in a plastic bag and shake well to
coat. Lift the rabbit pieces from the bag and discard the bag and
remaining flour.

In a heavy ovenproof pan, large enough to eventually hold all the
ingredients, brown the rabbit over high heat on all sides, about 4-5
minutes. Remove to a side plate.

In the same pan, sauté the onion slowly in some olive oil on medium heat,
stirring occasionally, until translucent, about 8 minutes. Add the garlic
and rosemary and stir another minute or two. Return the rabbit to the pan
and add the parsley, zest, cinnamon, tomato paste, chicken broth, red
wine and rabbit organs. Cover and simmer very slowly about an hour.
Remove rabbit to a warmed plate. Remove rabbit organs, mince and return
them to the pot. (If desired, for a smoother sauce, scrape the sauce
from the pot, deglaze with the cognac and 1/4 C water and scrape all the
bits into the sauce, then purée; wipe out any remaining bits in the the
pot and return sauce to the pot.) Raise heat, add the cognac (if you
didn’t choose to purée the sauce) and vinegar, and reduce sauce slightly,
stirring. Correct seasoning.

To serve, place a pool if the sauce on a warmed platter and top with the
rabbit pieces. Spoon more sauce over the rabbit if desired. Garnish with
parsley or rosemary sprigs.

NOTES: ———
Adding sauteed mushrooms could be great!
I used a stick blender to make the broth into a lovely brown sauce.
I didn’t use any organs. I also marinated/brined the bunny (before cooking) in red wine mixed with
smoked sea salt for a couple of hours– after cutting it into six pieces,
and attacking it with a mechanical tenderizer (sharp knife-like points)
all over. I was real happy to find the bun was fork tender–fell off the bones
easily.

And another participant’srecipe:

Sauteed Rabbit (from I Know How To Cook by Ginette Mathiot)

3 1/2 tsp butter
1 (2 pound) very young rabbit, cut up into serving pieces
1 onion (we used Walla Walla sweets)
1 shallot
1 handful flat leaf parsley, chopped
3 1/2 oz mushrooms [we used morels from Foraged and Found]
salt and pepper
generous 3/4 cup white wine
generous 1/3 cup hot water

prep time: 10 minutes
Cooking time: 25 minutes
serves 6

Melt butter in a skillet, add the rabbit and brown over high heat for 10 minutes. Sprinkle with the onion, shallot, parsley and mushrooms. Season with salt and pepper. Pour in the wine and cook for 15 minutes. When ready to serve, arrange the rabbit pieces on a dish. Add the hot water to the pan, stirring and scraping the bottom to release any browned bits. Bring to ta boil and cook to reduce to the desired consistency. Coat the rabbit with the juices or serve them in a sauceboat.

Bunnies are Fluffy and So Much More

In an earlier post I conveyed my conflicted thoughts on eating meat, and on eating meat from certain animals so I won’t go into that fully in this post. If you think ill of me because I choose to eat meat, or in particular to eat rabbit please read that post before commenting. We need to eat in order to stay alive but I am compassionate in my food choices and assume full responsibility for them.

After learning more about how much food it takes to bring a pig to market weight I have to question how sustainable eating pork is. It’s not something I’m likely to give up given how tasty the meat is, but we will eat it in moderation going forward. We also are reducing the amount of chicken we eat since I am also conflicted about supporting the Cornish Cross breed and don’t want meat that has been fed corn or soy, which makes it too expensive to eat frequently. This leaves us with local grass fed beef and lamb, sustainably caught (and sustainably transported) wild fish, local cheeses and legumes. And local, sustainably raised rabbit.

The more I learn about rabbit the more convinced I am that it’s the ultimate sustainable meat. Also achingly cute, soft and cuddly. Rabbits are highly efficient converters of food to meat, requiring little in the way of space or special processing equipment. It’s possible to have a responsible breeding operation with just 3 cages – one for the buck, one for a nesting doe and one for the current litter. You can choose how frequently to breed your rabbits and keep on hand only enough to satisfy your meat needs. Processing is easy and quick and can be done on an as-needed basis so as not to require an extra freezer. And processing can be done in such a humane way that the rabbits have no idea what is happening and suffer no emotional or physical trauma.

In short, it meets all my criteria so I arranged a rabbit processing class with a local farmer. The rabbits are from Abundant Acres Farm in Toledo, Washington but could easily be from your back yard. There were 7 of us in total who wanted to learn more about how to process rabbits, many of us middle aged women like myself, parents of children of all ages or owners of dogs who eat raw meat. Whatever our reasons for wanting to learn, each of us approached it with dread.

In Washington state small farmers can only sell live animals without special certification and permits – either you need to do the killing or hire someone from a butcher to do it for you. I’m not intimately familiar with the entire law or it’s intent but I do know that it prohibitis small farmers from processing their own meat, which would help keep local meat prices down. It prevents the majority of people who want to purchase meat already processed from being able to do so at the farm and in so doing it helps separate us from the source of our food. However many good things it may also do in the name of public health, it also prevents us as consumers from connecting that live animal in the field with the bundle of meat we purchase for dinner.

Thus, in order to retain that connection, we had to slaughter our own rabbits. Every one of us questioned whether we could actually go through with it when confronted with the sight of fluffy bunnies. In the end we each chose to try.

The farmer explained to us how to do it, showed us how to carry the rabbits so that they would not become frightened and gave us a demonstration. He watched and answered questions but ultimately it was up to us to complete the task.

The technique is very simple – set the rabbit down on the ground while stroking to keep them calm, place a broomstick handle across the back of the neck, step down solidly on each end of the handle, firmly grasp the rabbit’s feet and pull straight up on the hind legs until the neck is dislocated. The rabbit goes from calmly sitting to dead in the blink of an eye with no apparent emotional reaction. There are steps following but this is the emotional part.

I take that back – for me the emotional part was physically removing the rabbit from the cage. When I went up to get my future bacon I chose to have someone in my group shoot the pig and slit the jugular while the pig was still stunned. Pigs are large and I have no experience with firearms. The opportunity to botch either part of the process is immense and if done improperly the pig will certainly be under emotional or physical duress. I joined the process after the pig had been slain but I was complicit in that I wanted the meat and to that end was willing to process it.

This time it was my hand from start to finish. It’s one thing to eat meat – it’s another altogether to be the one that decides the future of this animal. Are you a killer because you eat meat even if you don’t do the killing? There is no question now that I am solely responsible for the death of this rabbit.

I hesitantly grasped it by the scruff of the neck and it immediately hopped to the other end of cage. Twice. I finally decided that I was tormenting the rabbit simply by chasing it around the cage so I managed to summon up the courage to get it out. It requires virtually no strength to broomstick a rabbit and I was easily able to pull the legs up until I heard that familiar snap, crackle and pop that I hear when I visit my favorite chiropractor. The rabbits eyes changed immediately, signifying that it was dead.

I took my kitchen shears, removed the head at the point of dislocation and held it up to bleed out for a few minutes. The next step is shockingly easy. You simply cut a small opening around the navel, insert both thumbs and separate. The rabbit skin and fur rips off the body, leaving you with a suddenly naked rabbit. You very carefully pinch the stomach to lift the skin up and away from the organs and cut a small opening, then widen it down the length of the abdomen and remove the organs. We cut the feet off using dog toe nail clippers, gave the rabbit a quick rinse and in a matter of minutes we had rabbits dressed for dinner.

Once we each overcame our emotional difficulties and began processing, the job was relatively easy. Even Jess, who did not think she would be able to complete this task, came to terms with the process and agreed this was the most humane and responsible way to eat meat.

I personally feel that at some point in the future, once my family is emotionally ready for this, we will have a meat rabbit operation in our backyard. It’s the most sustainable way for us to eat meat, and as I’ve said before, it meets all my ethical, nutritional, and environmental criteria.

What saddens me is that I know that my Foster Farms-eating neighbors may consider me inhumane for this. It will be perhaps the final rift between me and many that I care about. I conduct a fair number of garden tours and we constantly have kids over here playing. Most people would not understand my reasons for raising my own meat yet they would never question me wanting to raise my own vegetables. I know I may be painted as a brute, or at the very least, as radical – a bunny killer.

In reality that could not be further from the truth but most people are not ready for the truth – that they are complicit in creating distress, terror, and pain, that they are responsible for more adverse impacts on the environment, and that they are feeding their family sick animals.

It’s sad that something so right on so many fronts is culturally so wrong on so many others. This is a part of trying to live sustainably as possible in the city. It’s radical.

It’s My Fault – Thoughts on Meat and Greater Sustainability

I fully admit it. It’s my fault. I eat meat. I chose to have children. I drive a car powered with petroleum products. I own a dog in the city. I own more clothes and shoes than I can wear in one week.

These things are so much a part of our life, so comfortable, so important to our self image or sense of happiness, so easily justified. Now that I’ve managed to opt out of the conventional food stream I’m trying to do more, but sometimes doing more in one area means doing less in another. Sometimes I have to question if that is really helping in the long run. If I have to drive my car greater distances to a farm in order to pickup local dairy, a chicken package or boxes of tomatoes so that I don’t buy conventional ones in BPA lined cans trucked great distances is that really helping the planet?

It’s true I can find out exactly what the cows are fed in the milking parlor, what percentage of their diet is grass or hay, what type of cows they are, how they are treated, if they live directly underneath power lines or along train tracks or the freeway where food and water are certainly picking up fumes. I can see and feel the soil my tomatoes were grown in and I know I’m not contributing to forced labor situations, bad factory conditions, unsustainable farming practices that are somehow allowed to be labeled “organic”. But if I’m consuming more gas in order to bypass those things – is that the answer? I don’t know.

There are so many variables and disconnected goals. Despite that I feel I have a very clear voice, I myself feel conflicted. I started this journey as a way to protect and nurture the health of my own children. In order to do that I felt like I had to become a food isolationist. By opting out of the conventional food system I am in no way contributing to it’s misguided ways. And by encouraging others to do the same I hope to create ripples that will feed into bigger and bigger movements that may someday create a whirlpool of change in the food system.

Removing chemicals from my food is a natural precursor to removing them from all my household products – cleaning agents, lotions and soaps. This feeds my desire to eliminate a market for these unnecessarily mined and manufactured items. I can see how the number of items in my pantry, cupboards and medicine cabinet have shrank over the last few years. That means less distribution of products, packaging of products, manufacturing of products and marketing of products. I have significantly reduced my garbage and recycling service as well. This feeds my desire to be green and lower my carbon footprint.

After watching Food, Inc. I can no longer eat meat unless I know the quality of life it had, and the quality of death. It’s not enough for me to buy it at the farmer’s market or a local healthy food store. I need to visit the farm, see the life the animals have led and be present at the moment of death. I have added an ethical element to my needs, as well as nutritional and environmental.

Now I know that there is more to chicken than “natural” or “free range” or even “organic”. Even Joel Salatin raises Cornish Cross birds, although he is doing it in the best possible way one could raise Cornish Cross birds – over grass in tractors. After helping a friend process her 23 meat birds a few months ago which she raised in her backyard I’m trying to remove Cornish Cross chickens from our diets. The birds are bred to be ready for market much quicker than their bodies are able to keep up with. The feathers can’t keep up with the body development, they consume and poop large quantities of feed which makes them stink and they are caked in their own excrement because they can’t move around easily. They suffer from all manner of health issues so it’s good they are processed early, in order to put them out of misery. I don’t want to support that kind of “sustainable” or “organic” pastured meat.

Who knew eating would become so complicated? I now need to know the breed of animal (is it a heritage breed that needs protecting or capable of reaching full size in a normal, healthy manner?), the manner in which it was raised (was the animal raised in a manner that’s sustainable to the land it was on? was it treated with respect and allowed a good life?), the diet (was it fed a diet appropriate to it’s evolutionary requirements and was that diet supporting genetically modified crops in any way, shape or form, or the overfishing of oceans?) and the quality of death (did the animal experience trauma or was it ill treated at any point in the process?).

Any one of these things alone makes eating meat difficult, especially when you add in that I don’t want to expend petroleum driving great distances in order to obtain it. I find myself at odds with the whole offshore oil drilling question. Should it be allowed? If I don’t agree with it then I should stop consuming all petroleum products. That is my fault too.

And then there is the question of if we even should be eating meat, ethically. When I went up to Ebey Farm to meet my future bacon I had serious doubts that I could follow through with it. I’ve always had a soft spot for pigs – they are highly intelligent creatures. When Andrea scratched the back of one who was struggling to reach a certain itch, it glanced up at her with exactly the same expression my own dog gives me, of cognitive gratitude and satisfaction. Chubby enjoyed the same things in life that my dog does. If I can eat pork could I not also eat dog? What makes it ok to eat one living creature and not another?

Is it that we can form an emotional bond with some creatures and not others? Because there are plenty of backyard chicken owners whose birds are family. In fact, there is a whole market for chicken diapers so that they watch tv with you. I’ve been following the progress of Baby Jane whose mother did not recover after birthing. It’s obviously easy to form a strong bond with a cow who you breed annually, milk daily and care for from birth to death. Yet emotionally I have no issues eating beef, nor do most Americans. Is a cow such a far leap from a horse? And why are most vegetarians not averse to eating fish? Did the fish not have the same natural instinct to survive that a pig, chicken or cow did?

As a gardener I have no problem unleashing rabid ladybugs and attracting parasite-eating wasps to my yard. That’s my fault too. I allow my children to crush snails or slugs as they find them and I myself have squished plenty of slugs that were devastating our food. Are they too not living things with an instinct to survive? What about my vegetables? Do they not have some level of survival instinct?

Is it easier on our psyches and the planet to consume genetically altered soy beans that have been treated with hexane and a host of other toxic chemicals in order to convert them to the physical forms they take as they sit in their shrink wrapped packages behind refrigerated cases at stores near and far?

I find it interesting that not all Buddhists are vegetarians. Chagdud Tulku Rinpoche in Change of Heart says

“It’s a hopeless situation, because if we don’t eat we die. Since we have to eat, how can we minimize the harm involved?…To Buddhists, every life is of equal value. Most Tibetans don’t eat fish because usually several have to be consumed to satisfy a single person’s hunger. Highlanders prefer to eat yak because twenty people can live on the meat of a single animal for twenty days. They often think of lowlanders as non-virtuous because they kill so many beings when they plow the land – beings living in the ground, by exposing them to the elements and the birds; beings living above the ground, by burying or squashing them; and even more beings during the cultivation and watering of crops….None of these people want to create non virtue, but they can’t avoid it. The important thing is motivation. It is highly commendable to refrain from eating meat to spare a being from suffering and death. If your intention is never to eat grains or vegetables for the same reason, that is also very good….All beings exist interdependently. Consuming the flesh of an animal, or vegetables and grains cultivated and harvested at the expense of many insects’ lives, establishes a connection into one of virtue.”

I’m not sure what the answer is. But I do know that whatever your choices are you are just as guilty as I am. This is not a black and white issue so none of us have the right to be judgmental of other’s food choices. I started this post thinking it would be about processing rabbits but realized how conflicted I am about the whole issue. I felt exactly this way when I went up to the farm to process my pig and when I went to my friend’s to help her process her meat birds.

The one thing I do know is that it’s my fault. And I would never have known that if I had simply purchased processed meat from someone and not been involved in it’s demise.

Backyard Meat


Image from The Reluctant Gourmet

If you are a vegetarian then once again this post is not for you.

On Saturday, June 5 from 8:30 – 10 I’m once again venturing into new territory and would like to drag a few of you along with me.

Brad from Abundant Acres will be showing us as much of a backyard rabbit operation as we want him to, conveniently at his condo in Bellevue versus his farm in Toledo, WA.

If you eat meat and are striving for a sustainable lifestyle rabbits are the optimal meat source. They are highly efficient processors of food to meat, require a small amount of space and little to no carpentry skills to get set up. Processing them compared to other animals is quick and easy, requiring no special equipment or setup. The offal can be used as raw pet food or go into the garbage can or compost.

You can control the number of rabbits by managing the amount of time your breeding stock spends together and because they live in enclosures rather than in a yard setting you can have them on an apartment balconies or outside in virtually any scrap of yard you can spare. Cages are fully closed and stack-able which allows for efficient vertical farming and helps protect them from urban critters like raccoons, dogs and cats.

Brad has consulted heavily with Daniel Salatin of Polyface Farms in setting up his rabbit operation. And tho the rabbits are housed at his farm in Toledo, WA he maintains a city life, family and several business in Seattle as well so we’ll get to glimpse his personal rabbit quarters at his home in Bellevue.

Brad can give you guidance on setting up your own backyard rabbit operation but the main thing he is doing for us is demonstrating how to process a rabbit. We’ll be buying a live rabbit from him (or you can arrange to buy breeding stock of your own) and processing the rabbit ourselves. You will leave with a processed rabbit for your fridge or freezer and a new set of life skills to live more sustainably, not to mention a new way to significantly reduce your food bill should you choose to set up your own meat operation.

If you are interested in attending this lesson please email me ASAP since there are only a few spots left open. It’s annettecottrell(at)yahoo.com.

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