Category Archives: Bread

Starting a Desem – Day 3, 4 and 5

These directions are adapted from the Laurel’s Kitchen Bread Book.

Today is the third day of my new desem starter.  The first day I began it, the second day it rested and the third day it begins! 

After digging out your ball of dough cut off any of the hard crust that may have formed and remove enough dough so that your remaining dough is about half of what you started out with after taking it out of the flour.

Add 1/4 cup of filtered water and work that well into the dough ball.  At that point add enough flour and/or water to get your dough ball back to the size you started with.  This is called “feeding” the starter.  Knead the flour and water in until smooth and then bury your dough ball back in your flour again in your cold cellar or garage (50-65 degrees) until tomorrow night.

Day 4 and 5 you will repeat day 3 directions.

Breaking the Wild Yeast Barrier – or Starting a Desem Day 1

The first thing I did when I started my eat local pledge last year was order a grain grinder, a lot of grain and a few books on making whole wheat flour.

Whole wheat flour is not at all like working with white flour and if you simply substitute it in your favorite bread recipe you’ll end up with loaves of bricks. This isn’t so much because the ratios are off, it’s because whole wheat flour is it’s own child. Once you learn how to treat it, by providing a proper pre-ferment in acidic medium and sufficient autolyse or hydration period it will mind like that child you dreamed of having before you ever got pregnant.

Perhaps that’s why gardening and baking are so relaxing for me – the plants and grains don’t talk back and they generally let me shape their will into what I had envisioned would be compliant and yummy.

From the beginning I viewed this experiment as if I were Ma Ingalls. Now Ma Ingalls just might have some grains in the food shed, warm raw milk from the cow, freshly churned butter, honey, molasses and salt from Olsen’s Mercantile but she certainly would not have little packets of dried yeast.

Sadly, my family is not fond of sourdough bread unless it’s been hollowed out and filled with chowder. So I put that thought on the back burner. And then one day while glancing through the Laurel’s Kitchen Bread Book I noticed a recipe for Flemish Desem bread.

Unlike a bubbly, liquid sourdough starter that takes a week or less this one takes several weeks to achieve the strength necessary to raise your loaves. You start your desem mother by kneading 2 cups of freshly ground organic bread flour with 1/2 cup of filtered water then placing it in a container so it’s surrounded by more flour, close the lid and put it in the cellar. Nearly every day you feed it with more flour and water and knead that in for about two weeks. In the end you’ll have a new little pet that you breathed life into and will raise your bread for you.

My family actually liked the flavor of the desem, though they still preferred sandwich bread as our daily staple. And by feeding your desem twice weekly as you are required to do it continues to grow. Despite that it made kick-ass crackers at the drop of a hat I just didn’t use it enough. So after creating this wild creature I eventually neglected it and it slipped away.

This winter, though, I’m bringing it back and hopefully for keeps this time. Now that I have this blog and some fairly faithful local readers I’m hoping that we can divide the mother once it gets big enough and each try to keep it alive. If one of us loses our wild creature perhaps we can borrow from the circle of wild yeast.

In about a month my mother should be large enough to share with several of you which I’m happy to do. Or if you like you can start your own wild yeast creature along with me.

To start your desem on the first day combine 2 cups of organic stone ground bread flour with 1/2 cup filtered water. Knead it until you have a nice ball of stiff dough. If you are using a bag of ground bread flour simply bury your wild creature in the middle of the flour bag, seal it up and store it somewhere that is between 50 and 65 degrees.  If you have no flour bag simply use a plastic container with a lid or another small paper bag that you can roll up and secure against bugs somehow.

It will stay in that spot for 48 hours at which point I will hae further instructions for you. I find it’s easiest for me to start things like this at night because that is when I clean the kitchen and feed all my wild critters – the ginger bug, the dairy kefir and the mystery buttermilk. Just think of a time during the day when you would not be pressed on any day of the week to rush off and neglect your wild charges. For me that is night time, when all wild things are born.

I hope you’ll consider playing along with me on this wild adventure in bread making.

Bread Shaping

Here is how I shape my soaked whole grain bread.

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On a well floured surface divide the dough into two equal balls.

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Roll or pat into a large circle then fold the top of the circle down. Press down gently to be sure no air pockets remain.

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Fold the left side over to the middle. Press down gently to be sure no air pockets remain.

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Fold the right side over to the middle. Press down gently to be sure no air pockets remain.

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Roll or pat that out into a rectangle just slightly wider then your loaf pan. Note my heirloom bread pans – my dear grandmother gave them to me when I was little and I’ve never been able to part with them. They must be 50 years old and still work great.

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Starting at the top, tightly roll your dough down towards you so there are no air pockets inside.

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Gently pinch along the seam to seal and pinch the two outer edges sealed as well, tucking them slightly under the roll. Place your roll in the pan seam side down.

If you wanted you could spread melted butter and then sprinkle very liberally with brown sugar, raisins and cinnamon before you roll this bread up. Then you could either bake it as a loaf or carefully saw it into cinnamon rolls instead of making a loaf of bread.

Of course now I cannot find the rest of the photos displaying the last two steps but if I do I’ll add them again.

Conversely, you can simply shape your dough into a ball and place it on a pizza peel that has been liberally sprinkled with polenta, semolina or corn meal to rise and then bake it freeform on a baking stone. If you don’t have a baking stone or pizza peel yet I highly recommend you get one. They are great for baking hearth style breads and the only way to get that great pizzeria crust on your pizzas. Father’s day is coming up and they make a great gift…

100% Whole Grain Bread, Soaked

 

This is an extremely forgiving loaf with a nice crumb structure and sweet whole wheat flavor profile. You can substitute spelt, rye or ground oat groats (the name for oat berries)for up to half of the hard wheat but if you go much beyond that your bread will become crumbly and dense.

Play around with the ingredients to get the flavor, structure and schedule you prefer. Raw honey will make your loaf denser while sugar will make it lighter. Buttermilk or kefir will give your bread more of a tang than using the splash of whey in milk. Using less yeast means you can stretch the rising time out longer which decreases the amount of gluten remaining in the bread after baking and gives you a longer-keeping bread with a different flavor profile. Using a finer grind will give you a higher, lighter and better toasting loaf while a coarser grind will give you denser bread that makes for sturdier sandwiches.

This recipe calls for both a sponge (a bit of dough with yeast added to it) and a soaker (a mixture of flour, liquid and in this case, salt.) The sponge, which is also called a pre-ferment, begins an overnight fermentation process that will develop the flavor profile of the loaf.  The soaker hydrates the full fiber flour, improving the texture of the loaf with enough salt to thwart premature enzyme activity.  Enzymes are like digestive stew, separating the sugars from the starch molecules.  By slowing down the enzyme activity you are ensuring there will be plenty of starches left for the yeast in the preferment to feast on when the sponge and soaker are combined in the morning. It is a little more work to make two doughs but I’ve tried this recipe every which way and making a separate sponge and soaker will take your bread to a whole new level. It’s well worth the extra few minutes.

Whole Wheat Sandwich Bread

This makes either two 9″ loaves or three 8″ loaves. You can also use the dough to make hamburger buns, cinnamon rolls or breadsticks.

Soaker

3 1/2 cups (about 17 ounces) whole grain flour (I use hard red wheat)

1 teaspoon sea salt

1 1/2 cups milk plus 2 Tablespoons of whey or vinegar (or you can substitute half buttermilk, yogurt, or kefir for the milk and whey but your bread will be tangier)

Mix all ingredients to form a ball.  Cover the bowl with a plate and leave it on the counter to soak overnight.

Sponge

3 1/2 cups (about 17 ounces) whole grain flour (I use rye or emmer)

1/4 teaspoon yeast

1 1/2 cup filtered water plus 2 Tablespoons whey or vinegar

Add all of the Sponge ingredients to the bowl of a stand mixer and knead using the dough hook for several minutes until it forms a dough. Let it rest for 5 minutes to give the whole wheat grain flour a chance to hydrate then knead it for one more minute.

Cover the bowl and let it sit on the counter overnight.

Final Mix

If you won’t be making bread the next day you can put the soaker and sponge in the fridge for several days but bring them to room temperature before making bread, which takes several hours to do.

When you are ready to make the bread combine the soaker and sponge and add:

1 teaspoon sea salt

2 Tablespoons butter (optional)

Up to 5 Tablespoons honey or organic cane or brown sugar depending on sweetness desired

2 1/4 teaspoons instant yeast

Knead this all in the bowl of stand mixer using the bread hook for about 6 – 8 minutes, or by hand for 10-15. Wait until your dough has been kneading about 4-5 minutes before adding more water or flour to get the right texture. You want a dough that sticks to your hands just a tiny bit but is easy to knead by hand. If using a mixer, the dough should stick to the bottom o f the bowl but not the sides.

Check the final dough by taking a small piece of dough and stretching it out to perform a “windowpane test”. Your dough should be elastic enough to stretch, creating a window you can see light through without tearing. This ensures the gluten in the bread has developed enough to create a nice loaf.

Shape the dough into a ball and return it to the bowl. Cover the bowl with a plate and leave it to rise in a draft-free place until you can poke your finger into the dough and the indentation from your finger does not fill in. I let mine rise in the oven with the light on for some warmth but you can also let it rise on the counter, it just takes longer. Mine takes about 1 1/2 hours for the first rise in a 66 degree house. If you find it is taking too long for you, try increasing the amount of yeast.

After the first rise, shape your loaves (see below), then cover them with the tea towel and let them rise again, about 45 minutes this time. They will continue to rise in the oven.

With experience you’ll figure out how high they should look in your pans before baking. If you get bread with large holes in the top you know you let them rise too long. If the crumb is dense you did not let them rise long enough. You may end up with several loaves that you save to make breadcrumbs, bread pudding or croutons out of but the experience you are gaining is immeasurable.

If you do happen to let the bread rise too long you can take a serrated knife and slash the tops before baking to keep them from rising up more.

At this point I remove the tea towel (remember I had my loaves rising in the oven already) and turn the oven to 350 F. Once the oven is up to temperature I set the timer for 35 minutes. Your bread is done when it’s nicely browned and sounds hollow when thumped on the bottom of the loaves. The edges should also pull away from the sides of the pan slightly like a cake does and the loaves should register 190 – 195 degrees Fahrenheit when you stick a thermometer in the bottom of them.

Remove the loaves from the pans and place them on a wire rack to cool completely before you slice them.

Homemade bread will last for several days before it might start to mold so be sure to pre-slice and freeze any bread you don’t plan on eating in that time frame. You can pop it in the toaster to thaw and/or toast it when you want it.

To shape

  1. divide the dough in two
  2. grab one ball of dough in both hands with fingers encircling
  3. gently slide both hands towards the underside of the dough, smoothing and elongating as you go.  Repeat several times as necessary
  4. place each loaf in a well buttered loaf pan to rise

 

 

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